Section of Aggregate 100 Route above Rosedale |
Dirty Kanza 200 Gravel Race |
The biggest difference though is that most of the event is run as a sportive and the race part is over 4 timed sections. I guess this is because of our strict laws on racing bikes on public byways that we have in this country.
My take on a Gravel Bike
I have gone for the simplest option with regard a gravel bike. I have just taken what I have and made it work.
So I start with a Kinesis Pro6 aluminium cx frame - disc brake only, and as seen in the pictures utilising my own weight saving paint job in key areas. This frame doubles as my winter bike when mudguards and road wheels are added.
Add to this tubeless clincher wheels. In my case 29er Stans mtb rims built up by Hope, running Vittoria xg pro tubeless tyres. A combination that I have used on previous 3 Peaks and Scotten 100 rides.
Drivetrain is 10 speed Sram Rival, 44/34 chainrings with 12-32 cassette give plenty range of gears (Too big a range, but fickle UK weather could dictate the whole ride in small chainring or whole ride in large chainring)
Brakes are Avid BB7 cable pull with added "chicken" levers on the bars.
Bar tape is Zipp Service Course CX - works really well in wet and mud and is bit thicker than usual.
Pedals are Time mtb pedals as normal for cx.
Special touches to make it all work better as a gravel bike
From my experience the two most frustrating aspects of off-road riding on a bike like this are forearm/hand comfort and keeping bottles on the bike.
Arm/hand comfort is best addressed using a variety of positions. When cx racing I stay continuously on the hoods. For gravel riding I will ride on hoods for climbing and along fast flat sections. Descents can be taken on tops, hoods or in drops. If I am carrying speed I will use the drops as this gives the best braking and also the most bump absorption before the hands.
A bit of grip tape on the drop brake levers ensures my fingers do not loose connection whilst bouncing over rocks on the hoods with wet, muddy hands and levers.
In the past I have used gel pads on the bars, this bar tape is thick enough ridden with padded gloves and varying hand position.
Bottle cages are "reinforced" with strips of inner tube tied between the two halves and more grip tape stuck on the inside to hold those bottles in.
The addition of second set of brake levers gives another possible safe hand position whilst riding.
Tell us about Tyre Pressure
All cx riders love to talk about tyre pressure, preferably whilst squeezing front tyres with knowledgeable nods or frowns. It is an entirely personal thing, I ride much lower than many of my fellow riders (perhaps due to mtb heritage rather than road) but it works for me.During my recent test recce of parts of the course I rode with 40psi front and rear, about 15psi more than I would use cx racing these wheels and tyres. This gave enough solidity for road riding and good grip over gravel. I might try a little more as some of the bangs I managed to achieve smacking the rims on rocks were a little alarming. There is a reason that mtb tyre have such large volumes.
How does it feel?
I love riding off-road. The course is simply old school mountain biking - from a time before Dalby Forest had a bike park when 1.5inch tyres and steel rigid forks ruled. It can be ridden fast on this bike, stronger riders could ride it even faster. I have found this setup to be fast up, fast along and as fast as I dare down.
Ride light
Is a phrase that I was told by a good friend many years ago when I rode mtb and he came out on a cx bike. He managed to keep up with us over rough ground (who am I kidding - he was loads faster) and did not puncture.I asked him how?
He replied that he simply rode light. (Down towards Sheep Wash Mr. Streeton)
I have tried to do this ever since. My understanding is to encourage the bike to float over rough sections. Not a full on bunny hop, just ensure that your feet are not pushing down on the pedals and arms are absorbing as much as possible. Modern mtbs encourage riders to hit most obstacles as forks and big tyres do the work for you. Each crash from a wheel hitting a rock full on is a potential disaster, yet speed is still your friend. At speed a 1m lift of the bike becomes a 2m lift and your ride can become nearly silent as you glide over the terrain.
I do suffer with aching legs though. All that standing whilst barrelling down through rock gardens takes a real strain on the lower legs no longer used to such abuse. I have worked hard to protect my hands, little I can do for my legs.
I am looking forward to this new event. It is undoubtedly part of the future of cycling in this country, how it can be made more competitive for longer distances without going to Kielder or Scotland is the question.
As always, thank you for reading and happy cycling
Sunset over Farndale |